Labuche Kang II, first ascent
Chronology 

1995 expedition

• March 25

Flight from Geneva to Kathmandu, vis Delhi. During the day we spend in the Nepalese capital, we manage the custom transit of our equipement, obtain additional BC equipement and we meet our cook Prem. The transit of our RF-communication equipment is not permitted.

• March 28

Travel by bus and a lorry from Kathmandu to the Tibetan frontier, on the transhimalayan route. In Zhangmu (2300m), just after the frontier, we meet our Chinese staff: liaison officier (LO), interpret, drivers with three jeeps and a lorry. News are sometimes bad: the route to Tibet is closed because of avanches and landslides; news are sometimes good: we get our RF-communication equipment back.

• April 1st

After three long days spent in Zhangmu waiting for the closed route, we continue to Nyalam (3600 m), where we stay for two nights in order to get progressively acclimatized to the higher altitude. Visit of the Milarepa monastry.

• April 3

We cross Lalung La (5050 m), one of the highest pass of the transhimalayan route. The weather is fine and permits a nice view over the whole Himalayan range. We are animated by the far silhouette of Labuche Kang II, our goal, that can be seen from here.

• April 5

Two nights are spent in Langgolo (4500 m). Then a first part of our team, together with a caravan of 27 yaks, walks until to the the base camp (BC) at 5300 m and begins its installation.

• April 8

The rest of the team with a new caravan of yaks walks also to the BC.

• April 10

After some first porterages, a team installs camp 1 (C1) consisting in three tents.

• April 13

During an exploration on the glacier above camp 1, the party Simon-Heinz has an accident during which the later falls into a deep crevasse. A 15 m fall is fortunately stopped by the rope and the unfortunate can recover and return to the surface with the help of the jumars.

• April 17

Many porterages and an intermediate camp are needed in order to finally install the three tents of camp 3 (C3), located at the foot of the East ridge of Labuche Kang II.

• April 20

After a first unsuccessful attemp the day before, Christian, Thierry et Robs cross now the difficult bergschrund giving access to the East ridge.

• April 21

A period of bad weather brings the whole expedition team to the BC. The doc cares sick members, an ophtalmy and other minor injuries....

• April 25

Back to high altitude, a new team is active on the East ridge while the rest of the expedition members get acclimatized while carrying equipment and food to the altitude camps.

• April 30

After two days used for opening a route on the East ridge and two more days for resting and waiting for better weather, a first team composed of Christian, Thierry and André Müller reaches successfully the summit (7072 m) at 15:45.

• May 2

After some training on the fixed ropes and resting for a full day, the second team composed of Simon, André Geiser and Robs, starts from C2 at 9:00 and reaches successfully the summit at 16:30.

• May 5

Following the same scheme of preparation, the team composed of Dominique, Carole, Heinz and Doris start at 8:00 and reach the summit at 15:00. Thus the climb is successful for each member of the expedition. The weather is nice. However, the descent and recovering of the equipment finishes late and in a thick and icy fog.

• May 6

Once C2 dismantled and the equipment brought back, all members meet at BC. The successful climb and first ascent is celebrated with rum baba and whisky.

• May 10

C1 and BC are finally dismantled and cleaned. Accompagned by a caravan of 36 yaks, the expedition returns to Langgolo where the summitters are warmly welcomed.

• May 11

The expedition leaves Langgolo with destination Kathmandu or Lhasa